My first night in Namibia was the first time I felt homesick, and I realized it was the first time in over a year since I haven't had someone I am friends or family of/with in the next room. Namibia seemed a whole lot scarier when I woke up alone!
I woke up with the sun, which is really hard not to do here, and Elga's (Dr. Drews, my boss) energy is truly infectious. I couldn't be happier with having her as a mentor and boss. She is this tiny little firecracker of a strong woman, she loves our profession, and she loves living life. It is neat as well because everywhere we go, she knows people. She is definitely a mover and a shaker and she inspires me to be a better person and chiropractor already.
I can't actually touch anyone yet, as I'm waiting for the health council to approve me, but I spent some time shadowing at her practice, and we have a similar style. She is able to run a cash practice with a waiting list with the upper-middle-class and wealthier patients in Windhoek. Her practice is the lower floor of her home as well, so she juggles family responsibility and her career all within one base area. Rundu will be different, as I will be working with the national medical plan, but she assures me that they are good at reimbursement, unlike the American mess we deal with right now.
I can't be more thankful as well that Elga really makes me feel like part of their family. She is almost like a big sister/aunt to me, and I love her family. Her husband is the nicest man and they make a great team managing the household. Lucia is the little sister I never had- beautiful and smart and funny and just discovering her teenage attitude. Daniel has warmed up to me, and now he is chattering about everything he can think of in English!
Elga and her friend Susanna took me to a salsa night at a bar owned by their friend. Quite interesting on the intersection and diversion of social interactions here vs. the U.S. The bar used to have a veranda, but they covered it when they made the shopping center into the mall... so the mall walkway was the makeshift patio. It was a mixed crowd of Cubans and the various ethnic groups of Namibia. The guys wore sunglasses inside as a fashion statement, and the women were mostly dressed up. They had salsa dancers and everyone was getting down.... it made for good people watching. We had a few young men looking our way (although Elga and Susanna are in their 40s and early 50s, they look not a day over 35) and I pondered aloud that although we seemed to be getting attention, no one seemed to be approaching. They told me that Namibian man rarely, if ever, approach women and they definitely don't offer to buy them drinks. They just stare. I found that quite amusing because if some guy in the US stared at my friends without turning away or approaching I would say something.
Easter weekend is a holiday weekend for schools in Namibia, and we got up early Friday morning and headed to the Daan Viljoen game reserve right outside of Windhoek. It is Namibia's smallest game reserve, but since it is about 20 minutes outside the city, it is often visited. I remembered my sunscreen (good lawd thank you!) and myself, Susanna, and the Lasso-Drews family headed out. We went on an 11km hike (that was supposed to be 9km, oops we had an accidental detour). I got to see a giraffe right when we arrived, but only through binoculars. It was hotter than we expected, so we mostly just saw insects on the hike. For those of you who don't know, Windhoek is about the same altitude as Denver, and we were up in the highest hills. My buns certainly got a workout. This hike was just what my recently off-the-workout-wagon self needed. I am quite proud that even with the altitude change and the intensity of the hike, I didn't get out of breath. Well, if an 11- and 7-year-old can do it, I certainly can.
After the game hike, we went to the nice little buffet restaurant, although I am learning very quickly that African service is not the same you'd get from a waiter or waitress in America. They even had a huge pool you can jump in at your leisure. After relaxing, some light rain came in and it cooled down considerably- which was great for the last half hour we spent on the driving route through the game reserve. You can even get out of your car if you want to. I got to see the oryx (Namibia's national animal, which can survive in very harsh conditions), wildebeast, klipspringer, steenbok, impala and kudu. No zebra this time though! (They don't want to spoil me too early).
On Saturday, I met a friend through Couchsurfing and did some sightseeing around Namibia, as well as dinner. They have good ciders here... and they are cheap (aka dangerously so!), also tipping at bars is not customary here so it is insanely cheap to have a night out. We had dinner at a touristy place since a bunch of local restaurants were closed for the holiday weekend, but it was still quite an enjoyable atmosphere and relatively inexpensive. I ate a zebra steak, and it was delicious. Grain-fed factory farm meat is an abomination here, and game is the name of the... game... it is kind if odd to go looking for the beauty of an animal and then eat a steak of its meat, but it really connects the person to the animal and makes you appreciate the (insert Lion King reference here) Circle of Life! Chris and I met some Batswana (I just found out this is what you call people from Botswana) and went to Club Vibe.... quite like a US club!! It was an interesting mix of music and people, but our new friends were great and invited us to their table. I also got my first recognition- a guy from Wednesday came up and asked me if I'd been at the salsa thing. I guess this is a small town!
Something that really stuck out to me was one of the girls, who is studying law and going to be working with the UN, said that she resented America for making her think "white love" was the only kind of love that could be good. Our cheesy romance movies make it to sub-Saharan Africa. She said she never saw an example of a black man being faithful or falling deep in love in the media- she said she loved the movie The Notebook and as a teenager always wondered why she would never find a love like that. I know the US has some amazing movies that could compete on a level of The Notebook, but with ethno-specific applications- so if anyone has any ideas, I have her e-mail address. I explained that even white girls wonder why they can't have someone love them like in The Notebook! That is was romantic propaganda. She also said she normally hates American accents, but I was cool so it was okay hahaha.
On Easter Sunday, I couldn't imagine anything (second to being with my family) better than going to the Okapuka game ranch. It was a gorgeous, mild day and we arrived at the open-air lodge. You relax around rustic lounge chairs facing towards the open fields, and have a beverage. After relaxing, you eat a buffet, then relax again. Then while the rest of Elga's lovely extended family relaxed, we went on the game ride. Did I mention how great my boss is? We got to see giraffes and rhinos and crocodiles and eagles and vultures and springbok and sable elk, and much more in the beautiful savannah setting. They say once the Africa bug bites you, it never leaves your heart, and I can see why. People here, even the very, very poor ones appreciate the beauty of the country. The rhinos and giraffes were awesome, but the springbok have this delicate springy jump they do that is adorable, and called pronking!
Monday was also a holiday, and it was one of Elga's best friend's birthday. It was my first braai (aka game BBQ) and was quite nice. Martina, the birthday girl, and her husband have a neat compound. He is an artist and created all these pieces of art and woodwork for their child.
Today it was back to the office and I'm itching to practice! As soon as they approve me I can start actually working! A lot of Elga's patients speak to her in German, so sometimes its a bit dull, but it is interesting how you can pick up from body language and tone the personality of people.
I'm still trying to figure out how to compress these photos and get them uploaded, so I may have to send them in a ZIP file for someone with a fast connection to upload for me- there are some great ones!
Notes on Namibia this week:
1. They use old-fashion keys here, and lock EVERYTHING. Everyone has electric fences and gates, due to theft and robbery. Then they lock their doors too, with these cumbersome keys. You would think that they would be on those computerized apps already
2. Most middle- to upper-class families have tiny cars for zipping around town, and a bakkie (or pickup truck) for outdoor activities.
3. These kids (at least Elga's and her friends) seem like the most well-adjusted kiddos I've met. They are polite, funny, involved with many activities, and respectful of adults. They've told me there are a few who aren't, but I could definitely see the draw of raising kids in this type of environment. These kids have done more than many adults will ever do.
4. Booze and rides are CHEAP. I mentioned in previous posts that Namibia has a drinking problem, and with how cheap it is, I can see why! Also, a taxi ride around town cost around 10 cents US. 10 CENTS! You share a ride sometimes, and have to be careful for shady ones, but damn that is crazy compared to some cities I've been in.
5. Developing countries draw some very interesting people. Elga and her husband have been featured on a TV show, Susanna has been traveling the country for 20 years, the other chiropractor in the practice is father to Miss Universe 1992, Cuban doctors, an Olympic swimmer, world travelers.... and more! Everyone here I've met has a cool story.
6. Mosquitoes. They are about done for the season but I still have to spray myself down before I go outside!
7. Food. The food is mostly German or bush influenced. They frown upon additives in meat, eggs, fruit etc. Although most fruit and veggies are imported, and basically South Africa's leftovers, it is still non-GMO and looks and tastes like it came out of a garden. I miss my garlic and spices though- living with Sean we cooked with so much spice this food tastes a bit bland and overcooked. Elga's husband Jesus feels my love for garlic and wine so we are integrating that into the house lol.
Hope everyone enjoys the rest of Easter, it is fall here and quite cool at night! Its 17 degrees C, aka 62 degrees F...haven't quite adjusted to metric system yet!
